YZF750 Promotion Committee (information of YZF750R/SP)

About Chassis
About HorsePower

• Putting the axle shaft of rear wheel at opposite direction:
  This will make you easier to degrease the axle nut when you loosen it. It's handy when you adjust drive chain and so on.
• Removing the rubber on foot rests:
  You will find metal foot rests with 'aggressive looking'. I think it's less slippery without rubber at least not in wet condition. Only you remove two screws on each foot rest. You can also remove the anti-vibration weights by removing the bank sensors on the downside of the foot rests. If you remove weights, you can lean deeper.
  Here's another topic about foot rests. The dimension around footrests' mounting of YZF750 and YZF1000R (Thunder Ace) is all the same, so you can use aftermarket footrests for YZF1000R. Thus I used YZF1000R's footrests made by OVER with my 750SP (but now I use Yamaha's SuperBike race kit's).
  
• Stem bearing:
  Stem bearing may be one of the weak point of YZF750. In some case, stem bearing wears down around only 3000km ride. It seems that fitting common ball bearings for stem bearings causes this trouble. You can fit taper-roller bearings in the room of 750's genuine. Taper-roller bearings seem more durable.
  
• Steering damper:
  In a usual case, a steering damper of 160mm stroke is used. If you reduce the max steering angle to 20 degree by fitting a steering stopper (normal 750R/SP can steer 30 degree), you can use 120mm stroke model. Yamaha seems that they recommend 20 degree for the max steering angle at a race course. The damper stay for a normal fork is common with TZR250's (outer diameter of the normal fork: 52mm).
• Link rods of rear suspension (including tension rods):
  The figure of the link (including tension rods) of rear suspension was changed at 1995 model (Japanese model. In some other countries at 1996 model). When you adjust the height of rear side with height adjuster of Yamaha's race kit (or with the length of the rear shock) , you will find that the later model has wider range to adjust (later model allows to set the height higher). You can use the link and tension rods of the later model on the earlier model (1994 or before). If you do this, the height of rear side (at the axle shaft) will gain around 5mm (with earlier model's rear shock).
  When you set the rear shock 5mm longer, the rear height (at the axle shaft) will gain about 10mm. If you use 5mm shoter tension rods, the rear height will gain 10mm or a little more (with link of earlier model).
  (reference) The free length of the shock (distance between the two bolt holes) : earlier model...340mm / later model (Ohlins)...330mm